Heupriem

2294-8 Beaded belt (ípzàtsis, Uhlenbeck and Van Gulik 1930:26); harness leather, glass beads, brass tacks; l. 85 cm., w. 4 cm.; ca. 1910. This woman's belt was obtained by Mrs. Uhlenbeck from Walter Mountain Chief (a.k.a Black Horse Rider, Síkimia`xkitopi; RMV 1935; cf. De Josselin de Jong 1914:120), the son of (Frank) Mountain Chief (a.k.a. Big Brave). Earlier she had given him a piece of red and white embroidery she had probably made herself to decorate his hat. In return she received a short beaded belt that she put around her straw hat. Later she got this larger one from Walter Mountain Chief, after he had worn it during the Sundance ceremony (Uhlenbeck-Melchior 1911; Eggermont-Molenaar 2005:58-59,405). Men and women traditionally wore rawhide belts to which they attached a variety of beaded cases containing knives, sewing and fire-lighting materials, pigments, etc. However, those of women were most often decorated with colorful beadwork, metal tacks, and hide pendants. Soon harness leather belts of western manufacture were adopted and decorated with beadwork in overlay (also called spot) stitch, and brass tacks (Wissler 1910:127-128; 1945:36; Walton et.al. 1985:76,155,166-